Blackbird Mavrias, better known as Bird, and his wife Mimi Bull Shield are on vacation. Residents of Guelph (it’s in Ontario, Canada), they have spent recent years travelling through Europe, sightseeing and exploring as tourists. They are ostensibly tracing the path of Mimi’s Uncle, who ran away to Europe years ago with the family’s sacred medicine bundle and disappeared. There is a halfhearted hope that they will find some evidence of Leroy or even the bundle itself but they are also beginning to collect items for their own new bundle.
The present timeline of the story is set in Prague (with a diversion into Budapest) but we also see Bird and Mimi travelling in other countries and there are lots of references to previous trips, as well as some interactions at home with Mimi’s mother. Having spent a summer in Prague, I enjoyed the setting as well as the send up tourist culture.
Bird is a reluctant tourist. A former, lauded photojournalist, he has stopped writing and, seemingly, working, though we’re not quite sure why until later in the book. Bird and Mimi have adult children now and have been together many years. King excels at capturing the ease, the comfort, and the frustrations of a couple who know each other in and out, for better and for worse. Mimi is the driving force behind the travel while Bird spends a lot of time complaining about travelling. This honestly started to wear thin on me. Whether it’s because I enjoy travelling and would love to see and/or re-visit many of the places Bird and Mimi go, or because I’m living through a pandemic that makes it impossible to travel internationally, Bird’s winning made me dislike him more than I think King intended. Bird has a huge amount of privilege to be able to travel so easily and seems entirely unaware of it.
That said, the idea of privilege is one that King explores well in other ways. Bird and Mimi are both Indigenous though with different backgrounds and personal histories. (Obviously.) When they decide to make a day trip from Prague to Budapest, they find themselves face-to-face with the refugee crisis when they arrive in the train station, packed with Syrian refugees. Although aware that this was going on, they realize it is an entirely different matter to see it in person. They are horrified but paralyzed by the magnitude of the situation and unsure of what to do. After returning to Prague, they grapple with the guilt of doing nothing. I found this to be a very honest exploration of how many of us live. We are aware of travesties occurring worldwide but they are often easy to ignore unless something causes us to have to look directly at them.
I can’t imagine that anyone likes to see anyone in distress, but as soon as I think this, I remind myself that I’m wrong. For the most part, no one much cares what happens to other people, just so long as it doesn’t happen to them. We have the capacity for compassion. We simply don’t practise it to any degree.Indians on Vacation (pg 251 of ebook)
The story of Uncle Leroy that we are told also highlights the inequalities of Indigenous peoples in North America. King tells this story in a matter of fact way (we hear it from another character) while letting the reader draw their own conclusions. Similarly, King subtly highlights some of the racisms in Western Europe, particularly the somewhat strange obsession some Europeans have with the Wild West and the idea of “cowboys and Indians”.
Bird is a character suffering a crisis of self-identity, a crisis of conscience. King writes him so well that at times the book feels uncomfortably intimate, too self-revealing. I truly cared about Bird and Mimi, their history, what would happen to them. While I wanted Bird to whine less, I still wanted to travel around with them and watch them figure their own futures out a little more.